DIY Farmhouse Sofa Table [WITH FREE PLAN]

This beautiful sofa table has made a GREAT addition to our living room. Get the free plan at the bottom of the page and make your own!

This project can be done for less than $40 with pretty basic tools.

Compare that to a (much less sturdy :D) one like this for over $100:

You can see the full list of tools used for this project below, and for a list of our most used shop tools, check here.

Have to admit, before my wife asked me to make her a sofa table, I didn’t even know what they were! Turns out it isn’t anything too complicated.

According to, the general idea is that it can sit between a sofa and the wall if there’s a vent in the floor and you don’t want the sofa blocking airflow; or if you have electrical outlets you want access behind the sofa, it’s good for that too.

Or as a front entry console table, which is more how we are using it. It will double as a staging area for my wife’s food pictures too! She’s an amazing food blogger.

This was also my first time using a grey stain and I’m really happy with how it turned out. Need to do more of that.

(We are big fans of the Farmhouse look around here if you haven’t noticed; check out our Farmhouse style headboard project too!)

The X part of this took me a LONG time, not gonna lie. Once I got the first side done though, the second one took me only 5 minutes.

You get to skip all that since I have all the steps listed below ;).

Check out some shots of our new sofa table in our living room:

And another one that shows the top a bit better:

Here is the stain and clear coat I finished it with:

Was very happy with both, although the grey stain needs a lot of stirring. Basically if you see it going on really light, you have to stir it a lot more. It gets a ton of coverage and a 946 ml can will do several projects this size.

Same thing goes for the clear finish. Barely used any, and got nice coverage in just one coat which went on smooth and clean.

If you want to make this project, I’ve listed all the steps below in quite a bit of detail.

Just hit the big grey Print button below and you’ll get a nice clean PDF you can print out and bring to your shop/garage/basement or wherever you make stuff.

I’ve also provided the Sketchup File so you don’t have to draw it yourself, or if you want to make any modifications and make your own version you have a nice head start.

I draw all of our projects with Sketchup Make 2017 since it is free and we wanted to make it with a tool anyone can get access to.

Here’s the step by step!

How to make an DIY Farmhouse Style Sofa Table (or Console table)

Yield: DIY Farmhouse Sofa Table

DIY Farmhouse Sofa Table

DIY Farmhouse Sofa Table

Beautiful Farmhouse style Sofa Table for your entry way or living room.

Prep Time 15 minutes
Active Time 3 hours 30 minutes
Additional Time 1 hour 30 minutes
Total Time 5 hours 15 minutes
Difficulty Easy
Estimated Cost $38


  • 1 pc 2"x8"x8'
  • 1 pc 2"x6"x8'
  • 3 pcs 2"x4"x8'
  • 1 pc 1"x3"x10'
  • Weathered Grey Stain
  • Wood Glue
  • Pocket Hole Screws



Be sure to glue each joint before screwing together.

Overall size:

Step 1

Start by cutting all the pieces to size. Cut list:

2 pcs 2'x8"x45" (For the Top)

2 pcs 2"x6"x38" (For the Shelf)

4 pcs 2"x4"x28 ½" (For the Legs)

2 pcs 2"x4"x36"

4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜"

2 pcs 1"x3"x18 ⅞" (for the long piece in the X)

4 pcs 1"x3"x10" (for the short pieces in the X)

Step 2

Add 2 pocket holes to each of the 4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜ " pieces like this:

This is the Pocket Hole Jig I use:

NOTE: It depends which pocket hole jig you're using so just set it up as per the instructions 🙂

Step 3

Start assembling the legs. You will need these pieces:

4 pcs 2"x4"x28 ½"

4 pcs 2"x4"x9 ⅜"

a) On one of the long 1 ½" sides of the 9 ⅜" pcs, mark the center on the edges like this:

2 x 4 with center marks

b) On the 28 ½" pcs, mark the center near the edge like this:

Step 4

Now line up the two center lines like this:

Use 2 ½" pocket hole screws to fasten the 9 ⅜" piece to the 28 ½" piece. Do the same thing with 1 more 9 ⅜" piece to another 28 ½" piece.

Step 5

Make a center mark 7" up the inside of the 2 28 ½" pieces:

Line up a 9 ⅜" piece with pocket holes facing down; Use 2" pocket hole screws to fasten the 9 ⅜" piece to the 28 ½" piece. Do the same thing with 1 more 9 ⅜" piece to another 28 ½" piece.

Now, you should have 2 pieces that look like this:

Step 6

Using the pocket holes again, screw on the other 28 ½" pieces to complete this portion of the legs:

Step 7

Now we're going to do the "X" shaped portion of the table:

This part gets a bit tricky because the dimensions of everything aren't perfect. I found that it was best to do it this way:

On the 2 pcs of 1"x3"x18 ⅞", cut a 21° angle on each end, being sure not to cut anything off the length. Basically we want to cut off these sections of the board:

It should be too big, but this allows you to get a pretty close fit so you can mark how much more you need to cut off. Cut off a bit more (you might have to do this a couple times to get an exact fit, I know I did!) but just be sure each time to take a little less off than you think you need so you can test it and trim it again if need be until it fits exactly.

Once you have a perfect fit with one piece, using light markings, note which way it fits in, and which set of legs it goes with since the other side might not be exactly the same. Lumber isn't perfect!

Then, repeat for the other side.

Step 8

Now, add pocket holes like this:

This might make it easier to see where I mean:

diagram showing pocket hole placement on large X piece

NOTE: Again, consult the manual with your pocket jig to ensure you are locating the holes correctly.

Step 9

For the small pieces of the X, again some custom fitting is required (depending on how fussy you want to be :D)

Take the 4 pcs of 1"x3" that are 10" and cut a 21° angle on one end only. Then, fit each piece making sure to mark them for which position they go in (right side, top piece, for example).

Then, cut the other angle. In my case, it was roughly 47°. Most miter saws max out at 45° but mine allows me to go just over. If yours doesn't, you can check out this video where he explains how to cut over a 45 degree miter on a saw that maxes out at 45°.

To measure this, you can just hold the 21° angle side roughly in the position it will sit, and then draw a line along the long X part for where to trim it down like this:

Then, adjust your miter saw until the blade rests along the line to get the right angle.

Step 10

Once the angles are cut, you can add pocket holes. I just setup my jig for a 1 ½" setup but be sure to check the instructions on yours.

Add the pocket holes like this on all pieces:

Step 11

Now that you have everything fitting, it's time to assemble the X piece. It is much easier to assemble the whole X outside of the leg.

Making sure to mark everything accurately for what pieces go together, and what is the left/right, top/bottom, etc. the next step is to add glue to the areas where there will be contact.

Then, I used 2" brads through these parts as well:

Step 12

After everything is brad nailed together and glued, add glue to the top and bottom areas:

and insert into the legs. Drive the screws into the pocket holes:

X is complete! It's the most finnicky part of this project, there's no doubt :).

Step 13

Take the 2 pcs of 2"x4"x36" and add pocket holes in these positions:

Step 14

I found it easiest to lay the legs flat on the floor and then adding the screw in this pocket hole:

Step 15

Same thing on the other side:

Step 16

Then put it upside down to make screwing the other leg on easy:

Now it should look like this:

Step 17

And we're ready to add the shelf on the bottom.

Take the 1 piece of 2"x6"x38" and add pocket holes like this:

On the other 2"x6"x38" add pocket holes like this:

Step 18

Join the two pieces together using these pocket holes; 2" screws are good for this:

Step 19

Now that it is joined together, you can cut out the corner sections to make it fit inside the leg. Cut out a 1" long by 13/16" wide notch out of the outside corners using a handsaw or jig saw:

Step 20

Screw on the shelf using the 4 pocket holes as shown, and 2" screws:

Step 21

Now take 1 pc of 2"x8"x45" and add pocket holes 15" in from the ends like this:

Step 23

Mark the center as shown:

Step 24

Mark the center on the legs as well, as shown (same on both sides):

Step 25

Using the center marks, locate the top in the orientation it will sit when complete, and then drive 1 1/2" screws into the pocket holes as shown:

Step 26

Apply Stain if desired! I used "Weathered Grey" by Varathane:

Step 27

After the stain dries (I left it overnight) you can apply a clear coat to the desired finish.

This is what I used:

Can of polyurethane by Varathane

I went with only 1 coat, and we love the finish!

Finished Product

Here’s a picture of the actual product and where it sits in our home:

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